patterns

Butterick Fall 2014 Patterns

Butterick has just released their new patterns for Fall 2014. Let’s take a look!

Gertie has 2 new patterns. I like the back detail of 6094, but probably not with the full skirt. Crinolines are not my thing.

B6094

The wrapped jacket in Butterick 6105 is pretty but looks a little too costumey for me.

B6105

 

Butterick 6088 looks like a poor imitation of the OOP McCall’s 6278. Theoretically it should be slimming but the color blocking at the neckline and across the bust just looks strange.

B6088

The pleating and top stitching look really interesting on Butterick 6089, but overall it looks a little matronly. I’d be interested to see one of these in the wild and find out if a better fit would make it look more contemporary. The sleeveless version has potential.

B6089

Oh, I love when they sew up samples in fabrics that totally obscure the design features! Butterick 6090 actually has a very unique shawl collar that is a nice change from your standard shirtwaist dress but you’d never know from this photo! I like the skirt which I’m hoping is pleated and not gathered, but whoa..that’s a lot of buttons!

B6090

Butterick decided to head to Downton Abbey for their Retro Butterick releases (6018 & 6093), which are both interesting but definitely costumes. It’s a little disappointing because usually the Retro patterns are very wearable and with the fall release these seem like they are destined for Halloween costumes.

B6108

B6093

There are a few more patterns but nothing that really caught my eye. Overall I was rather underwhelmed, with just 2 or 3 patterns that I am somewhat interested in.

 

 

 

 

Colette Myrtle Dress

myrtleI picked up the newly released Myrtle dress pattern from Colette this week from Modern Domestic and I couldn’t wait to sew! I love cowl necks! I’m full busted and a nice draped cowl makes the ladies look good.

I’ve had this Italian jersey in my stash for ages. I just couldn’t find the right project for it since it has some gold lurex stripes and is a bit sheer.  So I needed something with a lining that wasn’t too casual and Myrtle was perfect. The front of the bodice is cut as a single piece and folded to make the lining. The entire bodice construction is rather clever.

Even though there are some new techniques in this pattern – it’s still quick and easy. Just be sure to read the instructions thoroughly before starting. I ended up sewing the waistband casing to the skirt and the bodice and it took me over 2 hours to rip out that seam! I think I spent less time on cutting and sewing the rest of the dress.  I also learned that the stretch stitch on my machine is bitch to get out and I will probably stick with a narrow zigzag from here out.

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I ended up using 3 different sewing machines for this project – sewing, serger, and my new coverstitch! A regular sewing machine is necessary for part of the pocket construction and creating the elastic waistband casing.  Otherwise I used my serger for most seams and my coverstitch for the back neck, armhold and lower hems. That works like a dream!

Pattern: Colette Myrtle Dress – View 1
Fabric: 3 yards of Italian Cotton Jersey.  Extra was needed for matching stripes.
Modifications: Added 1.5″ to shoulder width to create slight cap sleeve

Patterns that Fit & Flatter

I thought it was great when Colette Patterns announced they were adding sizes up to 3X in their new knitwear line, but now that I’ve seen the patterns I’m not so sure.  There’s a difference between patterns that fit larger sizes and patterns that flatter large sizes and you can see the difference in the 2 patterns Colette released.

mabelThe Moneta dress has a simple fitted bodice and a full skirt. From the models used by Colette to the ladies in the Curvy Sewing Collective – it’s looked good on everyone. This is a flattering pattern and one I plan to make.

The Mabel skirt is a pattern that fits but doesn’t flatter anyone with a tummy…including me!  This pattern is designed with negative ease – that means it’s actually smaller than your measurements and stretches over your body.

What does that mean? All of your bumps get accentuated.  On dress like Moneta – its accentuating your breasts which is a nice thing for many women. But I don’t know many women who really want to highlight their belly pooch.

Colette used a standard size model and a plus size model for their shoots of this pattern – which is fantastic because you can see how it works on a curvier figure.  Unfortunately despite the plus model being totally gorgeous, that pink skirt looks terrible on her.  When a garment looks bad on the model, what hope does a normal person have?

So while I have already purchased fabric to make Moneta, I’ll be skipping Mabel.  I hope in future patterns, Colette takes into consideration we want our clothes to fit and flatter us. There’s nothing worse than spending all the time and money to sew a garment to realize it just looks bad on you.

Pinspiration: Simplicity 1652

Patterns and pattern photos don’t always catch my eye. Case in point Simplicity 1652 from the Amazing Fit Collection.

1652 
I wouldn’t have thought much of this pattern until I saw the yellow dress below in my Pinterest feed. I love those pockets!  I did a little more searching and found lots of awesome dresses made from this pattern so it’s definitely on my to-buy list at the next Joann $1 Pattern sale.

Follow Lorene Voskinarian’s board Simplicity 1652 on Pinterest.

Burda Spring 2014 Patterns

I can’t say I buy many Burda patterns, but since I was browsing the Simplicity website I figured I would take a look and I found a few great patterns.

Burda 6968 – This is a vintage pattern for a very cute top. It’s nice to see some retro patterns from the 1970s,  and Burda has 4 in their new collection.

6968-M

Burda 6970 – I just love the vavavoom style of this sweetheart neckline dress. The bustier/skirt combo seems very Kim Kardashian to me.

6970-M

 

Burda 6916 – I’m intrigued by geometric construction of these dresses.  I do worry about trying to do an FBA.

6916-M