sewing

Sequoia Shorts


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I pattern tested the latest from Itch to Stitch the Sequoia Shorts and Pants. These were designed with hiking in mind which is definitely something I need in my wardrobe! I went with making the shorts, which meant I had to shave my legs for the first time in a loooong time but it was well worth it!

You can’t see it but the waistband is partially ribbing with elastic in the middle which is comfortable but secure with no need for a belt. There’s not even belt loops in the pattern! I made a muslin before making these in cotton twill from Joann. I’m glad I did because I desperately needed a fully tummy adjustment. Looking at these pics I should have done a little more in my adjustment but they feel pretty good. I also straightened out the legs on shorts.

The pants version has cargo pockets and roll up straps too. I’m hoping this fabric will stretch a little with wear as they are a smidge too tight and kind of stiff. If I make again I will probably opt for a stretch fabric, but overall this is a great pattern! I love all the pockets.

This pattern is 20% off for one week (until 1/31/18) so grab it for less during the launch sale at https://itch-to-stitch.com/product/sequoia-cargos-shorts-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/. No coupon needed.

 

2018 Make Nine Challenge


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I have accumulated way too may pattern/fabric combos for projects that have never been completed, so I decided to use the 2018 Make Nine Challenge as a means to get them done.  I’m focusing on primarily using fabric and patterns from my stash. For all nine project I only lack one pattern (Ames Jeans) and one fabric (Asaka Kimono).  I’m also focusing on more complex projects for my Make Nine. I’m sure I’ll sew up a bunch of knit garments in addition to these!

So here are my 9 projects

  1. Cashmerette Harrison Shirt in Chambray
  2. Closet Case Files Kalle Tunic in Black & White Plaid
  3. Mercer Tunic in swiss dot chambray
  4. Itch to Stitch Mila Top in neon flecked grey chambray
  5. Grainline Archer shirt in red/black buffalo plaid flannel
  6. Cashmerette Webster Top in Yellow Floral viscose poplin
  7. Named Asaka Kimono in unpurchased floral fabric
  8. True Bias Lander Shorts in black twill
  9. Cashmerette Ames Jeans in Cone Mill Denim

Sewing Stuff Organizer


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I made my sister Natalie a pretty sweet birthday gift – this Roadtrip case! The pattern is by Noodlehead and gives you instructions for customizing it for various purposes. I followed the sewing bag tips.  My sister does quilt retreats and I thought it would be handy. I also made her a coordinating ironing pad that fits inside this case. I thought I took photos of that but I can’t find them!

The fabric is all Cotton + Steel and is mostly the Rifle Paper Co Menagerie line with some blenders from other lines. The outside fabric is the linen canvas and all the other fabric is quilting cotton.

I put this tiger front and center! On the inside I used the smaller version of this print as the lining. Kam snaps were used to fasten the pockets.  You can fit a full sized rotary cutter in the larger ones.

I customized the pattern by embroidering my sister’s name on it. I also replaced the felt bits for pins with super magnets! Boom! Built in magnetic pincushions. Two of them!

The top pocket is made of vinyl so you can see all your stuff.  I ended up hand basting the binding on so I could sew it in one pass. On version I made myself I did not like how doing it in two steps turned out and once you sew it you have holes in the vinyl!

I brought my case to a workshop with Latifah Saafir and she admired it. It was definitely great to have my stuff more organized than just throwing it all in a bag. 🙂

Charm Patterns Lamour Dress


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Gretchen Hirsch’s new indie pattern line Charm Patterns by Gertie has launched! I was a pattern tester for her Lamour Dress back in June and now I can finally post about it! The Lamour Dress is a Shaheen inspired fit and flare dress with a 3/4 circle skirt and several wearing options for the straps. The best part is that it’s cup sized up to DD and it actually fits your boobs! I tried making Butterick 6019, which goes up to a D cup and getting the bodice to fit was a nightmare. The sizing on this pattern is so much better!

I really love this dress! I’m wearing it with a crinoline so the skirt has more poof than if you go without!

Since it’s a Gertie pattern it’s got a lot of vintage details like spiral steel boning and a waist stay.  This isn’t a pattern for a new sewist, but if you’ve made a dress or two you can definitely make this dress. The pattern has excellent instructions! The most tedious part of making the dress was cutting out all the fabric. The bodice has 3 layers (outer fabric, under lining, lining) and lots of bodice pieces! But once that’s done it’s actually pretty quick to make the dress. Gertie’s method for doing a narrow hem makes the usually painful task of hemming a circle skirt relatively quick and easy!
For my fabric I used this anchor embroidered checked gingham taffeta that I bought in Joann eons ago! it’s perfect for this dress! The dress is lined with a red cotton and underlined with muslin. My wedges were meant for this outfit! They have little sailboats and anchors on them. 🙂

Gretchen ended up making only one change to the final pattern – changing the neckline on the larger cup sizes to be a little lower. I liked the neckline as it is as my longline bra has very full coverage cups. So something to be aware of if you make this pattern.

So what do you think? Is this pattern going on your wish list?  Gertie also has the peasant style Rita top in her Charm Patterns line! I bought this pattern on Kickstarter and I’m eager to make that too.

Charlie Caftan


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Closet Case Patterns just released the Charlie Caftan and I’m excited to share my tester version!  I dig the caftan vibe but I’ve been reluctant to  make one because they are basically tents which generally don’t flatter curvy figures and tents require a gazillion yards of fabric.  So what’s awesome about Charlie Caftan is that there’s two options – modern take that I made and the slightly more traditional version that can be made in full length. The long version in the largest size only takes a max of 4 yards of fabric. Woohoo!

I have always loved the Carolyn Friedlander Euclid linen from Kaufman fabrics but never knew what to make. Then I got this pattern to test and I knew it would be perfect! It needs some more washes though, because it’s a little rough feeling and it wrinkles just from looking at it. I took photos immediately after ironing and I have no idea where those wrinkles near the hem came from!

There are a couple of changes that were made from feedback testing.

  1. Add a second arm opening an inch or so above the first for more coverage and
  2. Lower the bust panel about an inch so its not hitting at an empire height anymore.

In my version had already moved the placket down by an inch by lengthening the pattern by an inch above the placket. So my placket is in the same spot as the final version but my dress is an inch longer. I forgot to move my pocket notches up so my pockets are too low. This is easily fixable and someday (someday!) I will do that. 🙂

I’m planning on making a long version of View B with a lightweight cotton. I think it’s going to be swishy and amazing! I love that its going to look totally different from my tester dress. Two totally different looks from one pattern.

Notes: As a pattern tester I get a free copy of this pattern. All thoughts are my own.